Cathy Horyn filed a Spring 2011-thus-far report late yesterday, praising a return to the glamorously sensual (Tom Ford, Donna Karan) and natural (Rodarte) in a piece entitled, “Down from the Stratosphere, Gaga Free.” Horyn sees this departure from “dead whites and galactic silver” as decidedly anti-Gaga, whose apparent stranglehold on the fashion industry for the past few seasons has sent designers running desperate for a simpler, earthier palette of “mauve, rose, pink, tan, purple and terra cotta.” And Horyn would be absolutely right if she wasn’t kind of wrong.
We’re not totally sure how the glittered-out roller disco chic at Marc Jacobs fits into Horyn’s thesis. She also doesn’t address Antonio Azzuolo’s riffing on the decidedly sexless dystopian nightmare, A Clockwork Orange, in his clipped, shrunken men’s wear. Or that Wayne designer Wayne Lee cites Blade Runner‘s Pris as the collection’s chief influence. …which is striking because there has never existed a character in pop culture that more resembles Lady Gaga; I’m pretty positive Gaga has been aggressively trying to replicate Pris’ Peroxide hair, weirdo make-up, and fishnets-as-pants signature look for as long as she’s been in the spotlight.
So, I guess futurism is dead if Cathy Horyn says so. As for Lady Gaga, she hasn’t done anything lately and has been totally relegated to obscurity after “Telephone.” So there.