• Thu, Mar 31 2011

Gallery: We Captioned Photos of The Sartorialist’s Less ‘Curvy’ Subjects

Earlier this week, street style photographer Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) came under fire for posting two photos (above) of Milan-based fashion blogger Angelica Ardasheva alongside a striking caption about her outfit with respect to her figure:

I loved that she’s a bigger, curvier girl than most of the other bloggers who you see in the press and tend to represent the genre.

The subtle thing she achieves so successfully in these two looks is to complement the sturdy but beautiful shape of her legs with an equally strong shoe. A daintier shoe would be overpowered but these shoes create a beautiful harmony for the lower half of her body.

Tomorrow I’ll post an image of a different young lady I met in Paris with a similarly curvy body type but a different method of creating body harmony.

…This is striking not so much because he couched his observations in a oddly cautious, possibly condescending language (“complement the sturdy but beautiful shape of her legs with an equally strong shoe”) but striking because he commented on her body at all: he seldom captions photos, and when he does they’re little dashes about color or proportion or some such.

Schuman has responded to the controversy on his blog by citing a deficiency with language:

So help me understand; what is the modern way to speak about size? I’m not married to the word curvy. I’m just trying to describe her in the best way I know how. Let’s not hide from this issue; I don’t want to be afraid to talk about it on my blog. Help me describe this young lady without using the word “normal,” but in a way that addresses her body size and still references my point about the size of her legs relative to her shoes.

He raises a fair point that we seem to bury compliments of not-skinny women in what comes off as a strangely back-handed supposition that their bodies typically aren’t beautiful. As if we can only find curvaceous women beautiful in spite of their curvaceousness.

Jezebel Jenna Sauers puts it nicely:

The problem isn’t the words he or anyone else might use to describe a woman’s body, the problem is that women’s bodies are (thanks in large part to the fashion world and its incredibly restrictive norms) widely considered appropriate subjects for public critique and commentary at all. Schuman, ostensibly a style blogger, mentions Ardasheva’s size well before even turning his attention to her outfit — and even then, he considers her outfit only in relation to her body.

While The Cut’s Amy Odell wonders:

So he wanted to discuss “the size of her legs relative to her shoes.” What? Do we ever discuss the size (meaning thickness, presumably) of a runway model’s legs in relation to her shoes? Is this leg volume versus shoe volume a thing about which points need to be made?

And Styleite‘s Verena von Pfetten mentions the larger problem of diversity in the industry:

But he did both her and himself a disservice when he made such a concerted effort to point out that she was different not only from “bloggers who you see in the press” but from women featured on his site specifically.

As for us, we weren’t offended by Schuman’s caption, certainly not to the degree that many of his 1000 and counting commenters were. In his defense, it is hard to talk about size in a way that doesn’t feel condescending (which is absurd and not his fault) and it seems like a waste of outrage to direct it at someone who was genuine in his praise of a stylish, pretty young woman, if not mistaken in how to say so.

…However, we thought it might nicely illustrate the peculiarity of his statements concerning Ardasheva by captioning a few of his other, more traditional subjects in the same style.

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  • sara

    Gallery: We snark at people we’re jealous of and justify it with a flame war on another blog! (And how wrong someone in fashion was for commenting on someone’s apppearance! On their own fashion blog!)

    • dinosaur

      i think you missed the point completely.

  • Magda

    I think its important for people to realize that fashion has its own set of rules and hardly any of them apply to the general population or are they ever, for the most part, “PC”. While most people look at this woman and see a “normal” woman in a great pair of shoes, when looked at through the eye of fashion, their is something different about this woman’s aethetics. I understand that people think that it does not need to be remarked upon, but in terms of fashion, it is a necessary observation. Fashoin needs to set people apart in terms of what is “beautiful” because to say that all things are unconditionally beatiful ruins what they are trying to project; not everything is beatuiful, only what they are trying to show/sell you is.

    But if we are going to look at these pictures and critisize or complement, I think both outfits are great in a subtle, minimalistic way. I especially love the pops of color in the second photo with the bright red and the royal blue, but, I hate the way that her pants seem to be “flooding” and that you can see her black socks. Is this some sort of rule of fashion that is just to above my “normal” comprehension to grasp? I don’t know. I do know that I want those shoes.

  • Ally

    Love! You’re right on point. It’s proof of how far he’s climbed up his own ego that 1000 people tell him he’s wrong, and he still bristles and refuses to get it — or has become incapable of getting it?

    It’s sad that streetstyle (of which he was an online pioneer) owes its vibrancy to being a breezy, rule-free alternative to the stodgy conventions of fashion dinosaurs like Vogue, but that photographers like Schuman or Garance become co-opted by it, lured by the parties and the luxury, and so begin to reproduce the same trite conventional thinking, i.e. rich, skinny white people = good.

    • Serena

      People clearly misunderstood Scott. That includes you, Ally. Anyone would agree that Angelica dressed successfully for her body type and that’s what he was taking note of. It’s too bad that commenting on a woman’s beauty has become so exhaustingly political.

  • oja

    I don’t see what’s so horrible about what he said.
    He wasn’t insulting her or anything.

  • eggsontoast

    I don’t see why it is wrong to talk about a person’s body shape when we talk about fashion. Surely that’s necessary some times? Chunky heals look different on a person with skinny legs compared to a person with curvy, thicker legs. Why can’t we talk about that?

    And while it’s uncommon for Sartorialist to talk about body shape specifically, take something else like age and you’ll notice that he does mention that an older woman might style herself differently because of her age.

    I just don’t understand this controversy at all.

  • porkchop

    The Sartorialist bothers me. Mainly because it isn’t Vice Fashion Dos and Don’ts.

    Part of me says: Why should I congratulate all these rich attractive people for wearing expensive clothes?? But then another part of me says: You know, most rich people are boring as s***, so maybe they do deserve to be congratulated for at least dressing well. I like how he photographs a lot of older people and men, because they don’t get enough attention in the fashion world.

  • Craig

    I just stumbled across your website and am thrilled at what I see!
    The image and caption are based upon the acceptance of a universal ideal that must be pursued at all costs and adhered to with fear of life and limb lest you succumb to the fate, no the crime of being less than perfect in any way. This ideal of beauty ( for BOTH sexes) has become so internalized within our psyches thanks to the cult of Beauty perpetuated by the fashion / beauty industry and the myriad publications and media that spread its message, it can be difficult to decode and identify. To suggest that this industry is separate to our culture at large and somehow the archetypes it creates and worships do not resonate throughout our societies is to miss the point. We cannot greatly alter how this complex phenomenon works but we can make sure we are aware of it and understand the effect it has on our lives and most importantly the lives of young people.
    I think the gentleman photographers immersion in the world of fashion may have made it very difficult for him to see clearly what assumptions he was making with his caption, and his response illustrates that he still does not get the full point, which is OK, I don’t think he intended to offend anyone. What is great is that a website like this discusses the topic in an educated and calm way.
    Compliments