Do you like order? Do you expect some civility with your foie gras? With the advent of the whitehot dining-in-the-dark trend, you may find yourself giving over to your true nature: you know, the one Joseph Conrad was talking about. EIC Jennifer Wright went to one such all-darknessÂ restaurant, Dans le Noir?. Now she must teach deputy editor Ashley Cardiff thatÂ civilizationÂ is a fragile lie.