There are plenty of idioms that I can use that include the word blue—but I’ll spare you this time. After seasons and seasons of the “no makeup look,” color is finally finding it’s way back on to our faces. From Joan Smalls stopping the Met Gala red carpet to Kylie Jenner playing around on Snapchat, this trend definitely has legs.
The real question is how to work it in real life. I chatted with Makeup Artist and Director of Education and Artists Relations for The Makeup Show, James Vincent to get the low down on the bold, edgy look of blue makeup.
“Artists like Pat McGrath and Val Garland have been playing with bright, beautiful shades for the last few seasons,” explains Vincent. “For spring 2015 Honor and Elie Saab both showed cool, bold blues and for spring 2016 Diane Von Furstenburg, Monique Lhuillier had brilliant blues while Francois NARS brought a deep, rich grunge inspired blue hue to Marc Jacobs.”
Finding the right hue for you isn’t as hard as you think. “Blue is a primary color and works well but differently on skin tones,” says Vincent. “Since blue is a cool color it will appear more natural on a cool skin tone. While warmer skin tones might get a more dramatic look that really pops.”
Color value is one way to help you find the right shade. Vincent notes that while deeper shades (with grey or black undertones) may look more natural, they can also highlight imperfections aka under-eye circles. “Bright, vibrant blue or lighter hues actually can whiten your eyes (or teeth if wearing lipstick). To take the intensity down try using it along the lash line or inside the eye and pairing it with a nude or warm metallic.
But don’t forget to make it modern, often blue shadow gets a bad rap for being old school. “Choose a color that is packed with pigment and has great coverage,” warns Vincent. “The sheer blues of the seventies and eighties can look dated. Also try wearing the shade with warm metallics or mattes.” Stay away from frosted shades—they won’t do you any favors.
One of the perks of wearing blue lipstick is your teeth will look spectacular. “It [blue lipstick] can be very flattering. Ardency Inn Long Play Supercharged Lip Color in Black is Blue is rich, deep and bold. It gives a modern take to a vampy look that is appropriate for day and all night.”
The only catch? Migrating lipstick look might little cray, cray, especially in a deep shade of blue. Keep your color on lock by using a lipliner in a shade close to your natural lip color—not to match the lipstick.
However, the opposite is true with eyeliner. The closer the shade the better! “Use a Liner in the same color family or an analogous color that sits next to blue on the color wheel (like purple or green) for a cool fashion look,” shares Vincent. “Black is always beautiful with blue. Ardency Inn Modster Smooth Ride Supercharged Eyeliners in Turquoise and Blue look beautiful on every skin tone. Wear them along the lash line or use them as an alternative to long-wear eyeshadow.”
One last tip of advice? Pick an area to highlight, obviously blue shadow and blue lipstick is a no-go. “Try pairing blue shadow with a pale lip for an easy everyday look,” advises Vincent. “For more drama, try an orange hued lipstick will be perfect as commentary colors always work. [To complement your lipstick] bringing a pop of bright blush or bronzer will also keep the look soft and lovely.”