The mood in Paris was somber. The runways saw countless covered figures (loads of sleeved dresses, capes and capelets topped dozens of wideleg trousers), though these are Fall collections, after all.

Some silhouettes were unapologetically ladylike (like at Miu Miu and Nina Ricci) but there seemed to be a storm cloud over many of the shows: Chanel was staged in a post-apocalyptic wasteland, the Alexander McQueen collection was in honor of “the Ice Queen and her court,” and the backdrop for Lanvin’s austere looks was a weeping willow. Dark, maybe, but plenty to love.